If you want to see how Seoul really eats, skip the mall food court and head to Korean traditional markets, or sijang. Steam rises from noodle pots, mung bean pancakes sizzle on huge griddles, and vendors call out to passing shoppers. Here’s how to visit Korea’s most famous markets, what to eat, how to pay, and one market where you buy lunch with old brass coins.
Quick Vocab
traditional market – si jang
mung bean pancake – bin dae tteok
mini “addictive” gimbap – ma yak gim bap
Korean beef tartare – yuk hoe
rice wine – mak geol li
old brass coins – yeop jeon
lunchbox – do si rak
sweet filled pancake – ho tteok
market fried chicken – si jang tong dak
twisted donut – kkwa bae gi
“How much is this?” – i geo eol ma ye yo?
“One of these, please.” – i geo ha na ju se yo
1. Why Visit Korean Traditional Markets?
Traditional markets aren’t tourist attractions built for visitors. They’re working markets where locals buy groceries, fabric, and wedding supplies, and where office workers grab a quick, cheap meal. That’s exactly why they’re worth your time. The food is some of the best value in the country, and you get a close look at everyday life. For official visitor guides to Seoul’s markets, see Visit Seoul.
Markets are also changing. As more people shop online and at big supermarkets, many markets are working to win customers back with new food stalls and clearer pricing, which makes them easier for visitors than ever.
2. Gwangjang Market: Korea’s First Permanent Market
Opened in 1905, Gwangjang Market in central Seoul was Korea’s first permanent market and is still one of its busiest. It became famous worldwide after appearing on Netflix’s Street Food: Asia, and its central food alley is packed with stalls where you sit on a bench right in front of the cook.
Three dishes are the classics:
- Bindaetteok: A thick, crispy mung bean pancake, freshly ground on stone mills. It’s the market’s signature dish.
- Mayak gimbap: Small rice rolls served with a mustard dipping sauce. The name means “addictive gimbap.”
- Yukhoe: Seasoned raw beef, a Gwangjang specialty for adventurous eaters.
Pair your bindaetteok with a bowl of makgeolli, Korea’s milky rice wine, for the classic combination. Weekends get extremely crowded, so go on a weekday afternoon if you can.
Beyond the food alley, markets are full of snacks to eat while you walk: hotteok, sweet pancakes filled with brown sugar syrup (about ₩1,500), sijang tongdak (whole fried chicken), and kkwabaegi (twisted sugar donuts).
⚠️ Heads-up: In late 2023, a Gwangjang vendor made headlines for overcharging tourists. The market responded with suspensions, standardized portions, and fixed pricing. Today, most stalls post their prices clearly, but it’s still smart to check the menu board before you order.
3. Tongin Market: Build Your Own Lunchbox with Brass Coins
Tongin Market, just west of Gyeongbokgung Palace, dates back to 1941 and offers one of Seoul’s most fun food experiences. Since 2012, its Dosirak Cafe has let visitors pay with yeopjeon, brass coins modeled on old Joseon-era money.
- Get your coins. At the Dosirak Cafe, exchange cash for a set of brass coins and an empty tray. Each coin is worth about ₩500.
- Shop the stalls. Walk the market and look for stalls showing a coin sign.
- Fill your tray. Trade a coin or two for small portions of dishes like tteokbokki, dumplings, and jeon.
- Finish the meal. Head back to the cafe, where you can add rice and soup, and eat at the tables.
It’s especially good for families, first-timers, and anyone who wants to try many dishes without ordering a full plate of each. You don’t need to speak Korean, since you just point and hand over coins.
💡 Tip: The Dosirak Cafe runs only around lunchtime and closes on some weekdays and on the third Sunday of each month. Hours change, so check Naver Map before you go. Bring cash for the coin exchange.
4. How to Shop Like a Local
- Bring cash. Many small stalls are cash only, or accept only Korean cards and bank transfers. Around ₩30,000 to ₩50,000 is plenty for a food crawl. A WOWPASS card is a handy backup where card readers exist.
- Check the posted price. Most food stalls list prices on a board. If you can’t find one, ask “igeo eolmayeyo?” before ordering.
- Point and order. Pointing and saying “igeo hana juseyo” (“one of these, please”) works almost everywhere.
- Sit where you order. At food alleys, you usually eat at that stall’s bench, then pay the same vendor.
- Watch the calendar. Many traditional markets close on the first and third Sundays of the month, though sections of big markets like Gwangjang and Namdaemun often stay open.
Haggling isn’t expected at food stalls. Instead, you’ll often see a different kind of kindness. Vendors may toss in an extra piece or a small taste, a warm gesture Koreans connect with jeong, the feeling of friendly generosity.
5. Which Market Should You Visit?
Seoul has dozens of markets, each with its own personality. Here’s a quick comparison of four favorites:
| Market | Best for | Nearby |
|---|---|---|
| Gwangjang | Classic street food and history | Jongno, Cheonggyecheon Stream |
| Tongin | Brass coin lunchbox, families | Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seochon |
| Namdaemun | Huge variety, over 10,000 stalls | Namdaemun Gate, Myeongdong |
| Mangwon | Local vibe, fewer tourists | Hongdae, Han River parks |
If it’s your first visit, start with Gwangjang for the atmosphere. Pair Tongin with a morning at Gyeongbokgung Palace, and save Mangwon for a relaxed afternoon before a walk along the Han River.
Key Takeaways
- Gwangjang (1905) is Korea’s first permanent market. Try bindaetteok, mayak gimbap, and makgeolli.
- At Tongin, exchange cash for brass coins and build your own lunchbox.
- Bring cash, check posted prices, and point to order.
- Many markets close on the first and third Sundays of the month.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q. Can I pay by card at Korean markets?
A. Sometimes. Larger stalls may take cards, but many small vendors are cash only. Bring won to be safe.
Q. Is market food safe to eat?
A. Yes. Busy stalls cook food fresh in front of you. If you’re unsure about raw dishes like yukhoe, start with cooked favorites like bindaetteok.
Q. What time should I go?
A. Weekday afternoons are the most comfortable. Weekends and evenings are lively but very crowded.
Q. Are markets good for vegetarians?
A. Partly. Mung bean pancakes and some jeon are good options, but many dishes use meat, fish sauce, or anchovy broth. Ask before you order.
My Take
To me, a market is food heaven. I still remember eating hotteok on the street, both the sweet honey kind and the savory japchae kind stuffed with glass noodles. When I was a kid, my father would come home from the market with sijang tongdak, whole market-style fried chicken, and a bag of kkwabaegi, sugary twisted donuts. The best part is that you can buy a little of everything and taste it all.
Sources
- Seoul Metropolitan Government – Gwangjang Market: english.seoul.go.kr
- Visit Seoul (Seoul Tourism Organization) – Gwangjang Market: english.visitseoul.net
- Korea.net – Tongin Market draws tourists to the heart of Seoul: korea.net
- Korea JoongAng Daily – Seoul to introduce measures to curb exorbitant pricing at Gwangjang Market: koreajoongangdaily.com
- The Korea Times – Gwangjang Market to set rules on sizes of servings: koreatimes.co.kr
Suggested Reading
Why Rent Hanbok at Gyeongbokgung?
Tongin Market is a short walk from Gyeongbokgung. Visit the palace in hanbok, then grab a coin lunchbox.
Korean Dining Etiquette: What to Know Before You Eat Out in Korea
Market benches have their own rhythm. Here’s how Korean dining works everywhere else.